Study Abroad Files: Kraków

Nov 2

Nov 2 Study Abroad Files: Kraków

This summer I was incredibly lucky to have been in Kraków for six weeks studying Polish as a foreign language at Jagiellonian University. The University, which was founded over 650 years ago, is the oldest in Poland, so it's only fitting that it's located in Kraków—Poland's oldest major city.

Founded around the 7th Century, Kraków is unique in that the majority of its original city still stands. During WWII, the Nazis did not bomb Kraków as extensively as other Polish metropolises, so almost all the old buildings you see today are genuine, as opposed to cities like Warsaw which were completely destroyed and subsequently rebuilt in their former image.

Despite Kraków's Stone-Age origins, it's a youthful and exciting city to live and study in. I loved almost everything about my stay there, from good friends to good food. So, if you haven't already thought about visiting Poland you should now, and you should start with the beautiful Kraków!

Stare Miasto

Stare Miasto—the Old Town—is the heart of Kraków. To the south of the Miasto lies Wawel castle. The fortress which overlooks the Wisła river from atop a hill was the political hub of Poland's former capital for over 800 years, but is now a renowned museum. To the north stands the Barbican and the Floriańska Gate: the last remnants of Kraków's ancient city walls. Outlining Stare Miasto's distinctive "lightbulb" shape is the Planty — a flower-filled park that grows where the city walls and turrets once stood. And right in the middle is the gem of the Miasto — the Old Square.

The Old Square, or the Rynek in Polish, is centred around the Sukiennice, which once was a cloth trading hall. Today it is filled with souvenir stalls that most acknowledge are overpriced but, as a true tourist, I loved anyway. You can scale the old clock tower and glimpse views of the entire city, or sip coffee outside at one of the many cafes (including Starbucks, much to my basic, basic delight). Stick around to hear the trumpeter in St. Mary's Basilica: every hour on the hour the musician plays the same traditional tune, cut off abruptly as an homage to a trumpeter of yore who was struck down by an arrow mid-tune. In the summer you'll frequently see markets in the Rynek too, which are especially fun at night.

Clockwise from left: trying on traditional Polish flower crowns in the main market square; Wawel castle; view of St. Mary's Basillica from the Clock Tower; my friend Jen in front of the Sukiennice.

In the Miasto

Albertina Restaurant

I have fond memories of Albertina, as it's where I celebrated my 21st birthday this summer. Albertina is by all means a fine dining establishment. Not only is the food delicious, but the decor is beautiful and the service is impeccable. We were all pleasantly surprised to hear our waiter speak perfect English—a plus for a lot of my friends who had just started to learn Polish. My favourite dish of the night was the grilled lobster (pictured above), but other favourites included the foie gras and pork cheek. Top it off with a glass of champagne and some cake, and you're golden.

Albertina is expensive, but given the favourable currency conversion you end up paying about half the price of what you'd expect from a similar calibre restaurant in the States, which makes it a win for me. Also of note is that tip is not expected in Poland, and will often be included in your final bill. If not, 10-15% is considered the polite amount.

Collegium Maius

Nestled into the side-streets of the Miasto you'll find Collegium Maius. It was the Jagiellonian University's first building, and held its library, classrooms, dining hall, and professorial bedrooms. However, the history of the red-brick building doesn't start there: before the University's founding in the 14th Century, Collegium Maius was the central building in Kraków's old Jewish quarter. Upon Collegium Maius' acquisition, Kraków's Jewish population moved to nearby neighbourhood Kazimierz, which has remained the hub of Kraków's Jewish diaspora.

Nowadays no classes are taught in Collegium Maius as it's a full time museum, showcasing art and artefacts from the 14th Century onwards. Some of the most famous pieces include maps drawn by Jagiellonian University alumnus Nicholaus Copernicus, and an Oscar award donated by legendary Polish director Andrzej Waida. Like in the Rynek, you're going to want to stick around for the turn of the hour. At every odd hour, there is a magnificent display: a carousel of statuettes of the University's original benefactors circles the clock face.

Below is a video of Collegium Maius' main quadrangle:

Lokal, Teatro Cubano, and Pub Crawl

The walk from Teatro Cubano to Lokal. You can take the tram to the Teatr Bagatela stop — the same as to Collegium Maius. The pub crawl meets at the Adam Mickiewicz statue between the Sukiennice (centre) and Lokal.

Kraków's cultural significance is all well and good, but let's go back to how I said this city has GREAT nightlife. The amazing thing about Kraków is that you so rarely need to leave the Miasto or even the Rynek to have an amazing time. In fact, two of my three favourite spots to go out are located right on the square. (And, if you want to know, the third one doesn't count because it was the seedy pub in our dorm. Yes, you read that right. There was a bar in our dorm.)

I went to Teatro Cubano my first weekend in Kraków and was not disappointed. What seems like a regular bar in the front becomes a massive multi-level dance floor in the back. The line can be long and the bar can be crowded, but dancing to Spanish and Latin music while trying to keep down a vodka shot that tastes like pure rubbing alcohol is a unique and actually extremely enjoyable experience.

I'm not kidding about the vodka shots by the way. Call me weak and a bad Slav if you may, but cheap, room temperature vodka never goes down well. If you're looking for a good vodka experience, you should check out the subtly named Wódka Cafe-Bar, also in the Miasto on Mikołajska Street. You can get a 6 flavour degustation tray for around 30zł (~$9) depending on which flavours you order.

Another fun experience if you're a tourist (and miss people who speak your native language) is to do a bar crawl. There are a lot of different ones but they all have the same premise: pay 50zł (~$15) for a power hour of free drinks; from there, make your way through four more bars and — if you can — wind up at Lokal at the end of the night. It's no easy feat, but it's definitely possible. The power hour really catches up to you.

Lokal is hot. There's always a huge line and as the night goes on the cover charge keeps rising (though for the record, the highest I've heard it reach is 40zł for guys, which is only about $10). There's great music and a better atmosphere — inside has cave-like stone walls and moody purple lighting, as well as multiple bars throughout the small chamber rooms. There are a lot of those chamber rooms which theoretically should be easy to navigate, but are super confusing a few drinks in. It's all part of the experience though. Just roll with it.

The best way to end your night (if you're still going on after Lokal) is to grab a kebab and some shisha. Our regular place was Faroan. It's a chain, and you'll see a few around the Miasto, but we liked the location on Grodzka Street best. If you go, say "hi" to Mohammed for me. You won't miss him—he works the bar.

Outside the Miasto

Good Lood

While you're in Kraków you can't skip the neighbourhood of Kazimierz. The old Jewish quarter has small and chic restaurants and bars that are always guaranteed to delight. For me though, my favourite place to go is Good Lood, aka the best ice cream I've ever had. There's not much I need to say about it—I mean, ice cream basically sells itself. And unlike what many (including myself) expect, Kraków gets really hot over the summer. There's nothing better than enjoying a cool, fresh ice cream in the shade. Single scoop is good. Double scoop is better. Triple scoop is a bit too ambitious—I've yet to meet someone to finish it. The flavours change depending on fruit availability and season, but my recommendations are dark chocolate and Polish strawberry. Sit by the fountain across the road in Plac Wolnica—Freedom Square—and enjoy a few moments of peace.

Left: a double scoop of Polish strawberry sorbet and dark chocolate ice cream at Good Lood. Right: my friends enjoying their triple and single scoops.

Zalew Zakrzówek

Directions to Zalew Zkrzówek from the Norymberska tram stop.

Want the Mediterranean experience on a budget? Well, Kraków may actually be able to provide something akin to that, at least for the 'gram. Zalew Zkrzówek is a flooded limestone quarry across the river from the Miasto, just a quick tram ride away. For a 5zł (~$1.50) entry fee you get unlimited access to this amazing lake. There are a few distinct pool areas cordoned off near the shore, but if you're feeling adventurous you should scale some of the shorter cliffs and jump off.

It's really beautiful.

You can see in the pictures that a lot of people actually bring pool floaties and just hang out on the water. What's amazing about Zalew Zkrzówek is that it's mostly populated by locals, in part because it's a bit of a liability to promote cliff jumping to tourists. You need to be really safe and know what you can handle, and always go with friends. It's a big lake and it's pretty deep, so recklessness is not something you'd want to risk.

But don't let that deter you. I saved Zalew Zkrzówek for last because it was my favourite place in Kraków. The lake is so calm and the atmosphere around you is full of joy and excitement. You can tell everyone there is having fun, and honestly isn't that the point of a European getaway? When I'm next in Kraków over the summer, you can bet that's the first place I'm returning to.

I have so much more I want to say about Kraków, yet I can't quite put it into words. Even then, I've written so much that the sentiment may get lost.

For me, my time in Kraków was more than a special experience, but rather a way for me to connect to my roots on my own terms. It's undeniable that I carry a lot of sentiment towards my time there. I hope you visit, even if you have no connection to Poland whatsoever. These were just a few of the magic moments and places I experienced. Plus, the exchange rate is really, really good. Like so, so good.

Not to end with something of far less emotional significance, but it's true. Poland is great AND it's cheap. Good food, good drinks, and most importantly, Good Lood. Kraków really does have it all.