MODA Designer Profile: Ashanti Owusu–Brafi
“Materiality, texture, hardware” are not necessarily words you––or at least I––would associate with fashion, but that’s how Ashanti “Ash” Owusu–Brafi (any) describes their collection for MODA 2021. A fourth-year student majoring in Visual Arts, Ash is the sort of person that exudes creativity.
Ashanti’s collection for MODA 2021 explores the conundrum of utility in fashion. As a person that has worked extensively with welding––for them sculptural practice––they’re fascinated by industrial tools and metals, possibly the most utilitarian influences. Oppositely, their penchant for layering items also attracts them to this idea of wearing things that don’t perfectly connect with each other but solely serve the purpose of adornment. Designing with this contrast in mind, Ash’s collection also explores what is perhaps the most fundamental aspect of clothing, but one most of us don’t think about much: putting it on.
Through the lockdown last year, Ash spent a lot of time with her grandma, who had Alzheimer’s. Day in and day out, they would witness her struggle with getting things on and off. As a result, Ashanti considered the utility of their own clothes; she loves all these accessories, but they have no “use” and make clothes hard to wear. Inspired by Rebirth Garments, a designer who works specifically with queer folks and people with disabilities, Ash deep-dived into adaptive clothing, exploring ways to make clothes that are aesthetically pleasing but still easy to wear.
Designing this year, COVID aside too, has had its fair share of challenges for everyone. Ash cited not being around people and having the chance to work together as a part of the process they really missed. “I miss having people come over and try on clothes, because now I’m making clothes for myself and I don’t want to make clothing that’s only suited for my body and my body type.” However, there are “two sides to the same quarantine coin.” Designing for herself and on herself has helped her become more in-tune with herself; it’s been a chance to explore clothing on a deeper, more personal level. What do they like about wearing clothes? What do they like about clothes?
Clothes, for Ash, have always held special value. Their self-cultivated style is “a collection of all the things [she’s] seen in the world that [she’s] loved and enjoyed.” When she’s made clothes previously, they’ve been for friends and family; with the handmade quality, they become personable gifts. Throughout the process of designing for MODA 2021, the question they’ve asked has been, “Would my roommates wear this? Would my friends wear this? Would someone from the art community in Chicago wear this?” They started this journey with a set of friends in mind they were designing for, but interviewing the models and talking to them about how they liked to move in their clothing, what kind of clothing suits them, has helped her rework who she’s designing for.
“What you wear is like an archive of who you are and where you’ve been, and your body becomes an exhibition of history.” Their work for MODA 2021 comes from their gut, a reflection of their authentic self. Given that it’s Ash’s first time designing for MODA, they’ve really dug in deep and made this opportunity their own. She’s made her own pattern and ordered a variety of fabrics––denim, mesh, lycra––with this pattern, which she’s incorporating in layers into her final collection.
Specifically exploring materials and texture, her research into the leather industry led to them using discarded leather for this collection. Similarly, they’ve also revamped a tent that was going to be discarded by a store, deconstructing and then reconstructing its fabric into a rain jacket. Initially drawn to the tent’s colors, a majority of Ashanti’s collection features warm tones and neutral colors––think greys, browns, military-inspired shades.
While I wouldn’t have thought so, MODA is Ash’s first time designing clothes from scratch. They modeled for MODA a few years ago, for Sophia Harding–Jackson’s legendary intestine-inspired collection. “There was something epic about it; from the walk, the model thing, going to the place, getting my makeup done, being around creative people.” This creative atmosphere specifically, was something they wanted to be a part of. “It's one of the few RSOs that have the ability to house this sort of generative work, like an incubator.”
The best part? This has inspired Ash to want to start making their own clothes again. Currently, they’re in the process of making a website to launch their own clothing line. She’s also applying for a Master’s program in fashion. As Ashanti put it, “There’s more than meets the eye with clothing. I like to treat it as a secret we share and send a subliminal message. I hope to be performative in dressing and undermine gender stereotypes because my fashion is radical. My fashion is empathetic and aware. I like to subvert the ways I am perceived in the world; how people might predict my behavior by how I look.”
Images curtesy of Ash. Thumbnail by Vivian Li
