MODA Designer Profile: Kendra Thornburgh-Mueller
Kendra is a first year in the college, planning to major in Visual Arts and Environmental/Urban Studies. Most everything she loves to do in her spare time, she says, “has to do with making–– such as cooking, painting, growing a garden, and of course sewing. I also enjoy exploring Chicago, especially all its wonderful museums, thrift shops, and record stores.”
What are some sources of inspiration for your collection?
Nature, especially in the color palette. The main thing that I wanted to highlight was everyday life. The little things that you would normally just look past, things that I find very beautiful once you stop and look. I also like the designers Charlotte Knowles and Yuhan Wang. I like the deconstructed style and a lot of layering. Although I've since edited what my final looks will be, my original three looks were going to be based off of these (right column):
Kendra’s Moodboard
Could you walk me through those three images?
I’m planning to dye with coffee and tea. Mostly I just wanted to use a natural dye. That was the main reason. But when I was in the process of thinking of designs, I spilled a bunch of coffee on my shirt. And then I was looking at the patterns it made. It’s something that would usually be like: “I definitely don't want that to happen.” But if you stop and think about it, it can actually be interesting. I’m also considering dye-ing with avocado pits. When you dye with avocado, I don't know if you've seen it, but it's not green. It's like pink– it’s this really light pink– and it’s really pretty.
[In reference to the second image] I think this is mainly like a color and textural thing. You can’t really see, but the color on the street was frickin’ insane. I wanted that to translate into this somehow, like using the colors on each of these leaves. I’m also interested in using different kinds of fabrics and layering them to create irregular textures similar to those in nature.
[In reference to the third image] It's cool how in some countries, it's custom to dry your laundry outside, whereas in the US, it's all washing machines or things like that.
Exactly, yeah. I thought that was another kind of overlooked ritual. Just seeing them out drying really brings it to life, or just makes you stop and think about it.
What made you want to be a part of this process?
In the past, I did a lot of photography and painting. I just do watercolor doodles– it's purely just for fun. It's more abstract, rather than having to plan a concept behind it. That's how I feel I've approached personal artwork in the past. But this is a whole different kind of art. I’ve never sewn real garments before. It's all just been in my head. Even when I submitted the application, that week before was like the first time I actually drew out everything. And I've always been interested in fashion, and I've always admired it, so I thought it would be an interesting opportunity not just teaching myself how to sew, but actually getting to present the work.
What challenges have you faced? What was most rewarding?
Personally, I think probably the initial designing phase is the most fun for me. Picking out fabrics was really fun, too. I thought it was going to be easier, honestly, sewing. It's definitely taught me patience. There's a lot of first steps that are overlooked– cutting the pattern takes way longer than you think it would!
What do you have in mind when you’re designing?
It's interesting– designing for another person, not yourself. You know what you’re going to feel good in. So it’s interesting to have to think more about how another person would actually feel [in my designs]. Instead of just how it looks.
Do you have a design philosophy?
I got into environmental activism through learning about sustainable fashion. That’s also been a rewarding part of this process. I feel that making your own clothes is perhaps the ultimate form of sustainable fashion. A major issue in the fashion industry, and many industries, is the rapid manufacturing and consumption of clothing. Clothes themselves are another one of those overlooked things, like those that I am hoping to draw attention to in my collection. Making clothes from my own hands has taught me, and is still teaching me, how to slow down and put more intention into my actions. That famous saying says it best– you have to stop and smell the flowers.
All images courtesy of Kendra. See her designs at the 2021 MODA Fashion Show in May.
