Designer Profile 2022: Isabel Sobolewski

Apr 13

Apr 13 Designer Profile 2022: Isabel Sobolewski

Goodbye red coats and hello khaki trenches - the fashion show is coming, the fashion show is coming! As designers are sewing up their threads (read: preparing) for the show, I got a chance to catch up with Isabel Sobolewski, a second-year Molecular Engineering major and budding textile aficionado. As my Trader Joe’s tulips come into full bloom, I wanted to chat with Isabel and get her take on this spring awakening and how it has influenced her pieces this time around.

We chatted amicably for a while, getting to know each other a bit before delving into the nitty gritty details. We covered a lot of ground, from academics to style inspiration, and then dived headfirst into our haute investigation…

How does already having a show under your belt aid in contextualizing what you want to do for your pieces this time around?

This time around, I really wanted to focus on the technicality of my designs. I’ve been sewing since third or fourth grade, but I really want to focus on tailoring my pieces - like, I wanted them to look good up close. I want the seems to look straight, so I’m really focusing on making it look good in that way - from every angle, I guess.

How have you been able to build up to that? What is the process for you in terms of honing those skills?

I’m a self-taught sewer, so I’ve just been sewing a lot throughout the summer. Everytime I could, I would sew something, so now I’ve got an entire closet of outfits that I’ve sown. For the show, I’m making a pair of jeans, so I’ve been practicing jeans all summer - fixing things where I think they need to be fixed, so yeah. I’ve just been practicing and sewing a lot.

Cool, so when you’re sourcing materials for these projects, where do you go? Do you like using recycled items, or do you just kind of go to a textile shop and are like, “Yo, give me new material?” What’s your deal?

I first started out with muslins, like thin fabric so I know where I need to adjust. For zippers, I know the fabric there will be super thick, but thin fabrics help with the preliminary creation stages. I also have a lot of fabric at my own home and I practice on fabric that I would wear - like, I’ll have pants that I could wear if they turn out well. Yes - oh also, I love thrifting fabrics. I love going to thrift stores and getting blankets and sewing clothes out of them.

Why did you start using blankets?

Well, it’s essentially like two or three yards of fabric for, like, four dollars, when a yard of fabric would usually go for eight or so it really saves me money.

Okay, budding Biz Econ major instead of Meng…?

Haha, maybe…

So, you’ve been experimenting with sewing and tailoring - is that one of your goals for this Show? Are there more goals?

My biggest goal was to tailor my outfits because I don’t want to be, like, sloppy this year. I felt like last year I rushed myself, so this year I really wanted to get a head start and make it look good. I also want to make it look good on my models. That was one of my biggest goals - really accentuating my models and making them shine on the runway, I guess.

I really like that as a focus. You also mentioned timing, and when I think about time and fashion, I think about trends, so I want to ask what your take is on the trendification of all things, like micro-trends, macro-trends, the works.

I’m all for it, like I kind of love when people just wear what they want to wear, and if they happen to like what’s trending right now, then [shrugs as if to say “That’s that”.] I’m not a big fan of fast fashion, though. I understand how Shein and all that is really playing into the microtrends, – but one thing that really surprised me is the claw clip, like that was a microtrend that has stayed.

Yeah, I think it might be the utility of it.

Yeah, I think it is.

It’s one of those things that’s been around since the 90s, like scrunchies and claw clips. I wish that hair bobbles were coming back, like the little butterfly clips.

Oh, I love butterfly clips.

Love, love, love. Okay, cool. Since you’re focusing on jeans this time around, do you think that there have been specific changes between what you were working on last year and what you’re going to work on this year?

Yeah, so last year my theme was focused on the movement of fabric, so I had a lot of dynamic pieces. This year my theme is a little different. I collect rocks for fun when I go hiking, so I was like, “If this rock were to go have a girl’s night, what would she wear?” I’d say that this year, my pieces are a bit different - seemingly so, like they all look distinct and different from each othert, but if you understood my rock inspiration, you’d be like, “Oh, they’re like that,” – like, oh, there’s the marble, there’s the quartz rock, you know.

Do you attach vibes to each one? You evidently draw inspiration from the rock based on the context and theme you’ve just explained, but what about the rock influences that - is it the color, is it the shape, the texture?

It’s the color and the texture, I would say. That’s also something I look at when actually designing - the color and the texture of the fabric; I really love combining textures. It honestly comes down to textures, like for the quartz pieces, I’m using a different material that I would for the marble look - that one’s more sleek.

Do you think that influences the way that you explore tailoring?

Definitely, yeah. For the flowy fabric, it’s harder to work with, so I have to pay attention to that. For the quartz, it’s more of a structured look - once I put the boning in, I have to make sure its perfect for my model.

Oooh, so there will be boning…a little corset moment?

Yes, boning for a corset - I don’t want to reveal too much.

Exciting, my god, I’m so excited! What’s your favorite piece so far? Don’t give me too much, though, ha.

Um, what have I designed? Okay, um, I’ll tell you about the rocks. There’s marble, obviously the pink quartz, and an orange rock - I don’t know what it’s called, but its opaque with different orange streaks going through it. I chose the quartz one because I’m super girly and its a really girly outfit. Yeah, but all of them are super different from each other, so I really love all of them. I’m really excited to see the differences when they [models] walk - one of them is a clubbing outfit with pants and a crop top and, like, different textures all over.

Oooh, do you have any inspirations you’re drawing from, like fashion houses, brands, designers?

Personally, mine is Gucci. I’m a big Gucci girl. Some of their more outlandish designs I like; I don’t like their toned down stuff.

What do you mean by toned down?

Like, the old fashioned looks, looks with nothing new to them.

Like, is there no pattern or too much structure? What’s the deal?

Honestly, if there’s no color. I mean, no hate against it all, I love it, but I’m a color gal. In terms of designing, though, I kind of like doing my own thing.

Do you find it difficult sometimes to do your own thing?

Sometimes, yeah. Sometimes I’ll scroll through Pinterest and I’m like, “Oh, that’s a cool idea. I wonder how I could reimagine that sort of thing.” Sometimes I’ll draw inspiration from those brands, but I have a pretty youthful outlook on desigining, like my pieces are meant for younger generations, so its hard to draw inspiration from, like, Versace and Gucci because they’re often meant for more mature people.

Okay, so when you look at Prada versus Miu Miu, who would you gravitate more towards?

Oh, definitely Miu Miu, all the way.

Love, okay, so how do we feel about the Micro Mini™?

I don’t know, I feel like it’s overplayed at this point, like I saw this TikTok about how you can’t just wear the mini skirt. You have to wear the whole outfit; if you want to do a Miu Miu shoot, you have to wear the whole outfit. I think it’s cute, but it’s also, like, I don’t like how it’s kind of tailored to skinny girls - you don’t see enough plus sized girls in a Miu Miu mini. Like, my whole butt would hang out. I think it’s cute, but its for a very specific group.

Last year, you weren’t able to do the show live. How does it feel to be able to do things in-person?

It’s like night and day. I guess one of the biggest differences this year is that we’re allowed to do fittings with our models, which is really helpful. Last year, we couldn’t touch our models, so if something didn’t fit right, it’s like, “I don’t know what I’m going to do.” Now, it’s nice knowing that we have a venue and people will be able to come and sit to watch the show. Seeing the models and everyone’s designs is so exciting - I got goosebumps from just watching mine. So, yes, so exciting!

Do you think that energy and excitement gave you energy to keep propelling yourself forward? What was your takeaway from last year’s show?

Regardless of it not being in person, I loved every minute of it. I know I’m an engineering major, but I do want to pursue a career in fashion, and last year really opened my eyes to that fact. Seeing my looks walk down the runway, even if it was only in front of a camera, it was like, “Wow, these looks are mine, and no one else’s.” That’s a feeling I want to keep chasing - the show helped me find another passion of mine.

When you think about specific words or specific moods that this collection will evoke, what comes to mind?

I think, like, fun and flirty - a Girls Night Out on the town - I want to be silly and vibrant with it!