Designer Profile 2022: Sahana Gopalan
Last week in a comfy alcove in the Reynolds Club, I had the privilege of talking with MODA Nouveau designer, Sahana Gopalan. During our insightful conversation, the second-year Molecular Engineering major and design director for MODA Nouveau had much to say about the technological designs of Iris van Herpen, what led to this current collection, and some inspiring words about the empowerment of well-fitting fashion.
So, this isn’t your first time. What brought you back?
Last year was really interesting because I didn’t know how to sew before coming to college. So MODA has the program called DBC (Designer Bootcamp), where they teach you how to sew from scratch— literally starting from how to plug in your sewing machine and turn it on. I did that last year, and it was over zoom. I had a really fun time, although I didn’t get to meet that many people. But, at the same time, I always wanted to put my ideas out there but never had the ability to do so. It was cool to learn how to do the things you see in your head and put them on paper. When else will you get the chance to put your stuff on a runway?
Compared to last year, What has been the most challenging part of the process?
Since last year I didn’t know a lot about sewing; it was more like: will I even have the sewing ability to make what I want to make. Once you start sewing, your view on design changes a lot, as you realize what is doable or isn’t; or as you start interacting with fabric and models. So, last year, for me, was about looking at my models, and after everything I’d learned in DBC, I knew what would look most flattering on them. Personally, my models were a big motivator last year in the sense that I was like: okay, I don’t have to do the most technically or conceptually advanced thing. I want to create something that looks good and looks good on the model and makes them feel very good. That was my main motivating goal last year. This year, if you come in knowing what you can do in terms of your technical sewing ability, you can aim a lot higher. The most challenging thing is that I am doing four looks this year— I did three last year— and what I am trying to do with my looks technically is a lot more. Also, last year the show was a video, and this year is an in-person runway, so it always feels like the stakes are a little higher.
Speaking of your collection. Is there a specific aspect of your designs (color, silhouette, fabric) that you’ve given emphasis to in your collection?
For me, the same things always stick out. I’m not really a colors person. It is always neutral, always mellow. White. Black. Maybe gold or silver. I work with a muted color palette. The biggest thing for me is the flow of the designs. One of the coolest things about clothes and the runway is how they move with you, and especially since I’m working with time, I don’t want the things I make to feel stationary. One of my really big things this year is as you’re walking, how do the different pieces move as the model is walking. So, I think my biggest thing is flow and the shape of my models because there is an interaction between the flow of the fabric and how it flows on my model.
Image Provided by Sahana Gopalan
Image Provided by Sahana Gopalan
How do you go about your designs? More specifically, do you have a design philosophy?
This is so funny; I’ve had this exact conversation before. It’s interesting. If you look at all the designers and their designs, you can see their philosophy. I think I fall into a category outside aesthetics. I think design should be flattering, and it should play to the strengths of the people wearing the clothes. One of the coolest parts about designing is that it always fits. Being able to play to people's strengths and create clothes that will fit them is important. There are so many concepts in this world that you can explore through fashion, but at the end of the day, that fashion can play to the strengths of those wearing. But, I feel it's my responsibility as a designer to make the people wearing them empowered.
Do you have any designers you look to for inspiration?
Oh god… I really should. At the moment, I can’t think of a ton. But lately, I’ve been looking at a lot of Iris van Herpen. Not because I necessarily love a lot of what she designs, I’m not gonna lie — I know she is very eminent… so maybe I shouldn’t say that (laughs). Sometimes, in general, the runway feels over the top for me. The aspect of van Herpen’s work that I find interesting is like fashion-technology. So like, when we talk about capturing fashion in movement, she is so good at telling me the message she wants to tell me without telling me. While I might not like the overall look, I like her use of fashion technology and can find many things to admire in her designs.
More importantly, where do you draw inspiration from as you conceptualize your designs? Any specific point of reference?
So this year, my whole collection is focused on time and our interaction with it at UChicago, because it is so different from anywhere else. A lot of what I want to do in my designs comes from people and their experiences, and in the past, I drew a lot from rigidity and architecture. But now, it's more about what are the things I feel the most every day? and can I express that through fashion?
Last Thing. Sum up your designs with a SINGULAR song.
Oh… I would have to think about that one. It would probably be “Stella’s Theme” by William Joseph.
