Designer Profile 2023: William Hu

It was a joy to chat with William Hu, a returning designer and first time assistant design director of this year’s MODA show. He is a second year sociology and architectural studies major who hails from New Jersey! Keep an eye out for William’s avant-garde experimentations with dimensionality and old school sewing techniques at the MODA show next Friday, February 24th.

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Can you tell me a little about why you wanted to be involved in the show?

I started making clothes in high school, before COVID, so the summer of 2019, and at that point there was this coat that I really wanted that was very expensive so I was like “I’m just gonna make it myself” and that’s how I got into sewing.

During covid, I didn’t really sew that much, but when I was applying for college, I came upon the club MODA and I was like okay this would be a great way to get back into sewing and this is something I eventually want to get into for fun, so then I applied freshman year and became a designer.

I decided to come back this year because I really enjoyed the energy at the end of the show last year. You show your month’s work and all your friends come and support you and it’s very good energy… I think that was the highlight of my freshman year, and I wanted to stay on MODA because of that.

What are three words that describe your collection this year?

Monochrome, androgynous, flowy

William’s mood board for his 2023 collection

Can you tell me more about your garments, whether it’s construction or fabric choice or anything else you want to share?

Over the summer this year I learned a new method of sewing actually–usually there’s two types of sewing: there’s draping and then there’s this kind of two-dimensional approach… So draping is like you take the fabric to your model and you kind of figure out how you want it to look then and there… but this one’s called the Katinka method.

This is a really old method, very old school, very traditional tailor’s approach. This takes measurements and puts them into a pattern in a very two-dimensional way, but it’s very methodical. It almost looks like an architectural sketch, you see all these lines and angles. So this is my first year like “properly” making my clothes, more old school, and it’s been super interesting learning about how body measurements can translate from a 2d thing back on to a 3d thing. It involves making a bodice, like a dress slip, and you adjust the slip and then you make the pattern, so it’s a bit of an extra step. 

A sneak peek of a bodice

As for materials, I’m using a lot of different types this year. I’m using wool gaberdine, very chunky knit, this rayon knit, linen, crêpe de chine, and chiffon. I’m using a lot of fabrics I don’t usually work with so it’s been really interesting.

What’s been your inspiration in creating this collection as a whole, or in choosing these new materials in particular?

A lot of these materials are what designers that I really like use. I think I said the same thing last year, but Yohji Yamamoto uses a lot of wool gabardine and so do a lot of these other avant-garde designers. As for why I made my collection the way I did, I just really wanted to incorporate the transfer from this 2d modeling.. When you make a bodice, there are certain forms that are easy to draw from it—like vests, you’ll see a lot of vests this year. I think they look really cool, I just projected what I wanted to wear I guess.

Some of William’s design sketches he generously shared

Looking back at your design journey with MODA, what have you learned?

I think last year I tried to do this, but just… start early. There’s a lot of things that take time and you don’t really realize it. Last year, I tried to account for that, and I did, to an extent, but this year I was a lot better about it.

I think also making sure to swatch fabrics, because last year I didn’t really do that, and would figure out later like “oh this is not the right material” or “this is not what I wanted”... this time around I think I’ve gotten over thirty swatches, just a bunch of samples of fabrics, so I thought a lot more about fabric choice this year.

And [the last thing I learned as a designer] I guess, is to not being afraid to take risks, don’t be avoidant about stuff. 

Do you have any fashion advice for first-time show attendees?

So, I actually don’t really see the audience, to be honest, so I have no idea how people dress. But I know my roommate, he’s not really into fashion, but he came last year and had a really good time. So kinda just where whatever you want, I think. The MODA show should be the consolidation of all these people dressing all these ways so, yeah, where whatever you want! 

What is your favorite thing about the show?

Before the show, everyone is in the back wearing all their designs, and it’s cool because you’re seeing everything. As the director, this year I have interviewed everyone. I kinda know everyone. I know what everyone wants to do, but it’s cool to finally see everything in person. Seeing everyone talk with each other, everyone is super social… I met one of my really good friends, his name is Otis, and I had never talked to him until the day of the show. Now we are really good friends. And I think after the show, you see all your friends and you’re like “oh my god, y’all came and showed love”, and I think that’s the best part of the show.