Designer Profile 2022: Wendy Xiao

““In this vacuum of MODA, you can technically do whatever you want.””

As a part of 2022’s designer profile interviews, I had the chance to talk to Wendy Xiao, who’s getting prepared for her last fashion show with MODA. We had a very lively conversation about her inspirations, plans, feelings, and of course, her new collection, which she notes almost like a co-collection with Andrew Chang*, who she thanks a lot, emphasizing that she wouldn’t be able to finish the work otherwise. I had great joy talking to Wendy. Listening to her talking about her looks felt like listening to vivid stories with a carefully weaved, spider-web like intertwined narratives. Enjoy reading about Wendy’s last year journey with the MODA fashion show!

*Su’s note: MODA Blog’s previous editor-in-chief, an ex-designer, and my mentor in the Blog during my first-year, which I am really grateful for

I know that you have done fashion design before. I see that your previous collections were very playful, if that is the right adjective to use. What are some sources of inspiration for your collection this year? And, how do they differ from your previous projects? (of course, if you would like to compare them)

My last two collections were both driven by different things. The first one was more like a storyline. The second one, well, I was kind of going insane being in quarantine, so I just looked at my dinner, and I was like “I’m gonna make a dress like this!” I think, in a way, my collections are usually a product of what I was going through during the time of its conception. This time around, I was knee-deep in my thesis project when I was conceptualizing this collection. So, it is inspired more by my academic work than usual. I feel like this is a different way to engage with topics I’m interested in, specifically, the curation of East Asian art in the West. I’m asking the question of “how did objects move from China to the US and other Western museums?” So, that’s the theme I’m playing with in this collection.

How did your current collection shape the way you look at your inspirations, plans, people in the process, or anything you would like to mention? Now, you mentioned that it is more about your academic work. So, this question may mean “how did your collection shape the way you look at your thesis or your academic interests?”

I think the collection is a non-academic response to my feelings on East Asian objects in America. It’s a little bit of a lighthearted satire towards the way that some of these objects are misunderstood in a foreign space. I do think that the collection is shaped with the help of my friend Andrew. We are basically co-creating this collection together and I would not have dared to attempt four looks without his help. It's interesting for us to take a look at the East Asian objects in a Western space mapped onto ourselves as well. It is kind of our own exploration of that displacement in our own lives.

How should we expect to see that idea in your collection?

The collection consists of four looks that are inspired by objects I’ve been looking at during the conception of this project. One of them is a dress based on a hand scroll. And then, we have this couple's outfit. I love doing a little wedding dress or a couple’s outfit in my collections. In short, one is a crypt underneath a pagoda and the other is a Bodhisattva: relic and ascended spirit. The final outfit is actually inspired by Andrew’s thesis. It is basically a Qing dynasty jacket belonging to a guy who smokes a lot of opium. So, the thread of all these objects is a fake museum display. A hodgepodge of non-temporally constructed objects that aren’t actually historically very accurate. Museums these days do a pretty good job of cataloging and researching these objects. Still, there are definitely places in which a lot of things are misunderstood. This is just a little playful kick at this foreignness, this otherness of what Chinese elements are transformed into when they enter into this misunderstood space, I suppose.

What does “creation” mean to you in terms of fashion design? How does it differ from your other creative processes/purposes?

I draw a lot in my own time. It’s like a whole other thing. But, I think fashion, at least in the space of MODA, feels like there are no limits to what I am doing. Real fashion is very different. If you were a real designer, you have to pay attention to everything that is going on. But in this vacuum of MODA, you can technically do whatever you want. So, that’s what I am trying to do with this creative process. As you can tell, the way I generate my design ideas is very spontaneous and always changing. The sketches are very different from the final products, as I am always updating my sketches.

How did your experiences affect the most challenging and rewarding aspects of your design process throughout the years? What were they back in your first design year, and what are they now?

I feel like the first year was the easiest because we had a teacher, and we were able to say “help! I cannot sew this the way I want to!” Because, honestly, I still don’t know how to sew. I wouldn’t say it is particularly a challenge-reward based experience for me. Honestly, I am a little tired. I love MODA, the people are fantastic. But, how should I put it…It’s fun to come up with ideas, but making them… Let me show you my floor (turns the camera to the floor). It is a complete disaster. But, I did learn things. I learned how to use the sewing machine at least. Oh! and I genuinely do love the friends I made along the way. The people are always the best part.

Just a quick question. Are you planning to continue with fashion design, designing your own clothes etc?

I don’t know if you noticed but, I don’t like making practical things. I don’t really make things that can be worn. I wore this one jacket in my second year, one time. And that’s it. I don’t think that I have very practical sewing skills. So, I don’t think that I’ll be doing sewing. I am fine with that. I’ve been with MODA all four years of my college and it’s been a wonderful experience. So, I am happy to leave it as it is.

The last couple of years’ fashion shows had to go through drastic changes. What are you looking forward to the most about this year’s MODA Fashion Show? What do you think the audience should anticipate about this year’s show?

Being back in person is always really exciting. That’s something you can look forward to. But what I really liked about this year’s designer team is that people are taking the show as a place to creatively experiment. People seem like they are really trying to push the boundaries of what it means to make clothes, what it means to make objects to put on people, which I am super excited about. I am also looking forward to my own collection but I started very late this year and we have four looks to do. Actually, you know what, don’t look forward to my collection. Have no expectations!