Designer Profile 2023: Doreen Xiao

In honor of the upcoming 2023 MODA Fashion show. I was lucky enough to be able to sit down with new MODA designer Doreen Xiao, whose collection engages with questions of forced assimilation and the suppression of identity.

Tell me about yourself

Hi! My name is Doreen Xiao. I’m a third year in the College studying economics and statistics. Outside of MODA, I’m involved in UChicago Socially Responsible Investing Group, UBallet, The Blue Chips, DG, and I’ve worked as a Development Intern at the Smart Museum.

Are you new to designing, what has been your journey with designing?

I’m definitely new to this scale of designing. I started with upcycling my older sister’s hand-me-downs as she is much taller and more athletic than I am, so the pass downs weren’t always a perfect fit. I started hand sewing her older (now y2k) clothes and even begged my parents to send me to sewing camp in fourth grade. I’ve been sewing and making my own patterns for myself since then, but I have rarely designed clothes for others until now which is super exciting.

How would you describe your designs?

I hope to convey the message of the emotions surrounding “Forced Assimilation.” Much of my collection is focused on traditional Chinese dress and depicting how the culture gets obscured with time, as immigrants assimilate. The first style illustrates the start and microaggressions represented through the qipao top and gown bottom, a reference to the Utah qipao prom dress scandal many years ago which raised awareness about the importance of understanding and respecting cultural clothing especially when it is not your own culture. In the next two looks, the traditional styles get obscured more and more under sheer mesh, with the traditional elements becoming more and more covered with each look to demonstrate that as they suppress their identity further— the burden they carry overtakes them just as much.

“the traditional styles get obscured more and more under sheer mesh, with the traditional elements becoming more and more covered with each look”

What were some of your inspirations and how did you use them to make your collection come to life?

I found most of my inspiration through current events and stories I’ve heard. Many come to the United States encouraged by the American Dream but find it to be not as welcoming as they expected or as advertised. The country comes with rooted discrimination and hate. Although a relatively well-known topic, I am most inspired by the newer China Initiative introduced within the last 4 years. It is the government’s attempt to prevent China from developing innovation quicker than the United States which ultimately targets American professors who do any research or have any relation with China. It is a discriminatory initiative whose results suggest Chinese citizens who may not even have a parking ticket are felons and liars, scheming to put China on top. Many cases have proven those accused under the China Initiative as entirely innocent people who were targeted primarily because they are Chinese, and I encourage you to read them. It is an ongoing discriminatory practice that shows me how dim the American Dream still may be. In the end, this collection is dedicated to those who have felt the need to suppress their cultural identity and that forced assimilation is as prevalent as ever.

What were some challenges you encountered while creating your designs?

Taking on a culturally inspired look was challenging especially as I was attempting to show the fusion and contrast of two cultures and even the takeover of a culture through fabric and composition. I had to do a lot of planning as to how to execute this, and especially on the qipao, I spent a lot of time on creating the pattern and placing the embroidery. There were just a lot of small details that I had to plan out which at times was mind boggling.

Have you learned anything new being a part of the MODA fashion show?

I have learned a lot about garment construction and proper technique. I think when you’re designing for yourself, it’s easy to leave a button a little loose or a seam a little crooked because you know you are the only one who will see it. But this experience has really challenged me to master techniques and present my best work to my models as well as the people coming to the show. I also learned that tulle and silk are an absolute pain to work with haha.

Do you have any advice for those just getting into designing or who would want to do the show next year?

I am a new designer this year, and it really just took courage to apply! I’ve had visions of looks for so long, and I think putting it on paper and creating a cohesive, interesting story was so incredibly rewarding. If you have any bit of inspiration, draft it out on paper, talk to your friends about it, and sew up mock designs with thrifted or old clothes. That’s really where I started, and I haven’t looked back since.